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Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion as a language of power

2026-08-24 16:10:43Fokus SHKRUAR NGA REDAKSIA VOX
Giorgia Meloni and the language of fashion

From Giorgia Meloni's switch from dark suits to pastel colors to Angela Merkel's signature jackets, politicians have long used clothing to shape how they are perceived by voters.

Often dressed in pastel colors and baggy pants that cover her high heels, Italy's first female prime minister can't escape the fashion spotlight. And not just because Giorgia Meloni runs the country that's considered the fashion capital of the world.

"Fashion is a language. It tells us what the person wearing it wants to communicate, without using any words," Michela Bonafoni, a fashion lecturer at Unicollege in Florence, told DW.

"Maybe what you wear is very close to your personality. But if you want to give a different impression of yourself, you can do this through your clothing. This is exactly what Meloni does constantly," explains Bonafoni.

Meloni's style of dress can be read as part of a broader political transformation: from outsider to established figure of the system. When she took office in 2022, her appearance was closely linked to the political identity she had built as leader of the right-wing "Brothers of Italy" party, with post-fascist roots.

Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion
Meloni began her term as prime minister wearing dark suits, as seen in this December 2022 photo.

Her look was characterized by dark suits and heavy boots, conveying seriousness and even a fighting attitude.

From men's suits to pastel colors

This is where the concept of "power dressing" comes in, which emerged in the 1970s and became particularly influential in the 1980s, when the second wave of feminism coincided with the entry of more women into professional and leadership positions.

Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni at the EU summitItalian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni at the EU summit

The suit became a way for women to signal authority in traditionally male-dominated work environments.

Italian designer Giorgio Armani played a key role in this process. His softer, more fluid styling offered a new take on the power suit, borrowing elements from men's fashion but creating a more feminine language of authority.

During his first official appearances, Meloni was often seen in dark Armani suits, a reference to the classic style of power.

According to Bonafoni, this style simply communicated: "I'm here in this government and that's it."

Since then, Meloni's look has softened. She is often seen in wide-leg pants and suits in shades of cream, beige, pink, and other soft or pastel colors.

Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion
Today, Meloni (seen here meeting German Chancellor Friedrich Merz in June) often wears baggy pants and softer colors.

This change also coincides with the transformation of its role in European politics, where it has moved closer to the European Union and has become an important supporter of Ukraine.

However, in domestic politics she has maintained a conservative approach, which has not been welcomed by a large part of the public, including many figures in the Italian fashion industry.

No luxury brand, including Armani, has publicly come out to wear or endorse Meloni's use of its products.

Fashion as a political tool

That hasn't stopped Meloni from using fashion to reach out to the public. "When Meloni realized that many Italians didn't like some of her government's actions, she started wearing pastel colors, which create a sense of understanding and convey the message: 'I am Giorgia, a kind woman,'" says Bonafoni.

She adds that Meloni often uses "Made in Italy" designers as part of her nationalist brand, linking their prestige to her political image.

At the Salone del Mobile Fair in Milan in April this year, Meloni opted for a more informal look: jeans and a simple beige jacket.

Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion

According to Bonafoni, the message was: "I am ordinary, just like you. But I am also exactly where I want to be at this moment and in this government."

Such a style expresses self-confidence and is closer to the more relaxed way of dressing that characterizes some American politicians.

Political uniform

But political power doesn't always require constant wardrobe changes. For some leaders, consistency itself becomes a form of power dressing.

Former German Chancellor Angela Merkel developed one of the most recognizable wardrobes in modern politics.

Its formula was simple: trousers and a three-button jacket. The difference lay in the many colors of the jackets.

Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion
Merkel wore a distinctive 'uniform' during her years as Chancellor of Germany.

This simplicity became a kind of uniform that put Merkel herself, and not her fashion, in the spotlight.

"Her second skin, that is, clothing, was very close to her character, beliefs, and political decisions," says Bonafoni.

Even former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher had her own political "uniform": carefully tailored suits, strings of pearls and signature handbags, an instant symbol of female authority in her era.

Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion
Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum is known for wearing clothes made by women in indigenous communities.

Today, Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum offers another example. She often wears clothes made by Mexican artisans to show support and solidarity with the country's indigenous communities.

From "hipster dad" to tactical clothing

Although women in politics face more attention to their appearance, men have long understood the political power of appearance.

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy often opts for tactical attire, a far cry from the traditional suit and tie of most world leaders.

According to Ukrainian journalist Illia Ponomarenko, this is part of his anti-elitist message. "His clothes beg the question: What are you here for? To save lives or for luxurious protocols?"

Even when meeting with royalty and world leaders, Zelenskyy dresses like an ordinary Ukrainian involved in the war effort.

The message is: "I have come to the centers of power as a representative of my common people."

Similarly, British politician Andy Burnham, often called the "hipster dad," prefers a smart-casual style with T-shirts, polos, and sneakers.

This too is a political message that aims to show closeness to ordinary citizens.

Another transformation for Meloni?

As for Giorgia Meloni, Bonafoni expects the world to see another change in her style soon.

Dressing for power/ From dark suits to pastels: How Giorgia Meloni uses fashion

The cause may be the challenge coming from far-right politician and former general Roberto Vannacci.

"Meloni has stated that she does not want Vannacci in her government, but her party may need him in a coalition to stay in power," Bonafoni said.

She concludes: "I'm sure that if and when Vannacci seriously challenges her, Meloni will change her style again, because she will have to present herself as an even more powerful figure."/ DW

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