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A trip to the Strait of Hormuz: Here the sirens have never sounded. The Iranians? We are neighbors

2026-04-17 18:47:38Kosova&Bota SHKRUAR NGA REDAKSIA VOX
A journey to the Strait of Hormuz

 

 

In the fishing villages of Oman overlooking the Strait. Iran is only 30 kilometers away, but the war seems far away.

Khasab, Oman – The boat chops through the waves of Hormuz as a fierce northerly wind whips the strategic waters. After a bend around the rocks, Kumzar appears, Oman’s last frontier, just thirty kilometers from the coast of Iran.

Colorful houses have stood for centuries clinging to the cliff, silent witnesses to a Persian Gulf that has become the most critical hub of the global oil trade and the boiling point of the US and Israel's conflict with Iran.

On the small beach, the only entrance to this village that can only be reached by sea, an elderly man in a turban awaits us in the shade of a house, sheltering from the heat of over 40 degrees Celsius. Goats graze among the stones, undisturbed.

For fifty days, tourists have almost disappeared. In Kumzar, a village of two hundred houses, a school and a mosque, life is sustained by fishing and European visitors. But the blockade of the Strait has changed everything.

“Do you feel the war?” we ask three men in front of a grocery store. One walks away, the other shakes his head: “No war, no war,” he repeats. Here, the war remains only thirty kilometers away. Oman is one of the countries least affected by the conflict.

"Here the alarm sirens have never sounded, we are at peace," he adds. A young man tells us that during Iftar he saw two missiles in the sky, but they looked like fireworks. And yet, right across the street is Bandar Abbas, the Iranian port with the recently bombed military bases.

When the sky is clear, Iran is clearly visible. “We are neighbors!” the residents tell us, speaking Kumzari, a mixture of languages ??that bears witness to the passage of seafarers through the centuries.

A trip to the Strait of Hormuz: Here the sirens have never sounded. The

During the cruise, we encounter small Iranian boats speeding home, loaded with clothes, food, and electronics purchased in Oman. Due to sanctions and a dual naval blockade – by Trump and the current conflict – Iranian traders take everything, even cars, from the nearby port of Khasab.

In Kumzar, no one talks about the Pasdaran or Trump's ultimatums. Oman, as a mediator, has done its utmost to avoid bombs, but here the war comes through secondary effects: it takes away jobs and fills the streets with silence.

A trip to the Strait of Hormuz: Here the sirens have never sounded. The

Only the children fill the void. Little Lejla greets us with a "Bye bye" as she shows us her gold bracelets, while the others play in the water with plastic boxes, imagining them as ships.

Leaving Kumzari leaves you with the feeling of a mirage that could disappear at any moment. On the way back, the view changes. In this spectacular view, the fame is not made by beauty, but by the oil that is not circulating.

From the shores of Khasab, some of the thousands of ships stranded on both sides of the Strait are visible. A gigantic and motionless army of ironclads, silently awaiting the end of the blockade to resume sailing, while the inhabitants of Kumzar continue their simple lives, as if the war were just a drawing on the horizon. / Corriere della Sera

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