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Kashmir, from the goats of Mongolia to the factories of Italy: The history and economics behind the world's most sought-after fabric

2025-12-12 20:41:06Lifestyle SHKRUAR NGA REDAKSIA VOX
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From the highlands of Mongolia to the factories of Italy, cashmere remains one of the few materials that mass production has been unable to touch. And in an era when most fabrics are mass-produced and almost monotonous, it continues to stand out as one of the few materials that reminds us of what true quality means.

The origins of cashmere remain unique and demanding: it comes from the highlands of Mongolia and the Himalayas, where the cashmere goat develops a thin, highly insulating layer under its hair to withstand the harsh winter.

The rarity that determines the value of cashmere

Harvested in the spring, by combing, not shearing, this painstaking work is just the beginning. The fibers, often thinner than 16-19 micrometers, are what give cashmere its soft, almost airy texture and its renowned ability to warm without weight. It is one of the most peculiar contradictions of luxury: a material that feels minimal in the hand, yet gives maximum comfort to the body.

Kashmir, from the goats of Mongolia to the factories of Italy: The history and

Quality in cashmere is not a theoretical concept. It is reflected in the durability, natural shine, the structure of the fabric that does not loosen after several uses. A minimal amount of useful fibers can be collected from a single goat, which also explains the real cost of the material.

It often takes the fibers of three to five goats to produce an average-weight sweater. Production cannot be scaled up to an industrial scale, nor do the animal feeding conditions or the collection process allow for any “faster” process. This limitation, combined with the constant demand for high-quality materials, has created a global market worth more than $3.5 billion per year.

Mongolia and China remain the largest producers, while Italy has taken on the role of the main “processor”, giving the final product the finish and feel that luxury connoisseurs recognize.

In this context, inevitably some houses have linked their name so closely to cashmere that they have contributed decisively to the perception we have of the material today.

Kashmir, from the goats of Mongolia to the factories of Italy: The history and

The house of Loro Piana remains the ultimate reference for high quality. It does not invest in impressions, but in the rarity of the raw material, in the precision of the workmanship and in an almost ritualistic sense of simplicity. Its knitwear “stays” on the body effortlessly and stands the test of time in a way that justifies its cost.

The house of Brunello Cucinelli, on the other hand, has associated cashmere with a more anthropocentric philosophy. Its aesthetic is calm, neutral, warm, and its approach to the material remains faithful to Italian craftsmanship, with an emphasis on color and details that don't need to scream to be noticed. For many, Cucinelli knitwear is the golden mean between luxury and everyday usability.

Kashmir, from the goats of Mongolia to the factories of Italy: The history and

In Scotland, Johnstons of Elgin, with a history dating back to 1797, proves that tradition remains a strong advantage. There, production is carried out entirely within the same textile units, from raw material to finished garment. The result is knitwear that stands out for its durability, texture stability and performance consistency.

In a more contemporary direction, brands like Naked Cashmere are leveraging the direct-to-consumer model to offer cashmere at more affordable prices, emphasizing transparency, sustainability, and a more casual aesthetic.

Kashmir, from the goats of Mongolia to the factories of Italy: The history and

Meanwhile, companies like Todd Snyder, ASKET, and Guest in Residence have brought cashmere into the world of casual wear, naturally incorporating it into a wardrobe that can move from the office to a night out without any pretension.

What unites all these approaches is the same promise: that cashmere, when produced properly, is not just a fabric. It is an experience that passes from hand to body and from there into the relationship that each person develops with their clothes. It does not promise impression, but durability. It does not demand noise, but substance. And that, in today's attention economy, is perhaps the greatest luxury.

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