"Three days and three nights in the car, walking in the forest. In the hands of passers-by, the ferries of illegal immigrants. We left with nothing, leaving our grandparents in Pristina. As soon as we arrived in Trieste, the taxi driver dropped us off in the center. It was snowing, I felt the cold in my bones. It was a November evening in 2002, I was seven years old. The first night we slept under the stairs, the next morning we went to the police station, asking for refugee status. Babi Xhelil had worked as a waiter in Germany, but had returned to Kosovo during the war. Hajrije's mother is a housewife. They wanted to offer us a better future."
It is with these words that the Albanian chef Emin Haziri talks about his trip to Italy. He is a Muslim and in Arabic his name means pious, virtuous. He was rated by Forbes magazine as the best chef under 30 and on June 7 he will inaugurate his restaurant Procaccini on the street of the same name.
Emin inherited her passion for cooking from her mother and grandmothers, among her childhood recipes are pie and fritters, both delicious. But these are not the dishes that can be enjoyed at Procaccini, where taste is intertwined with aesthetics. While we talk, writes Corriere della Sera, the waiter serves us: corn tacos with anchovies, mayonnaise with sea bass and anchovies, anchovy caviar, salmon; Beef-based Fassona tartlets, white truffle mayonnaise; creamy cod fried in cornflakes.
The parents did not want Emini, their eldest son, to enroll in hotel school: "I insisted that I study medicine". It was a short step from a three-year degree to a profession.
"I started my internship in Brescia with Philippe Leveille, then I went to Milan to Carlo Cracco, to Mudec to Enrico Bartolini and to Villa Crespi for Antonino Cannavacciuolo. The desire to do something came from the fact that as a child I felt humiliated because I did not speak Italian well and my classmates had more things. My family had no money. I'm always in the kitchen, with my head down like Jannik Sinner on the tennis court: we are young, silent, hardworking."
Experiences abroad
There are many experiences abroad: for nine months in Noma in Copenhagen, he worked at the Mecca restaurant of chef Rene Rexhepi.
"There were 60 of us in the kitchen and to be noticed, you had to be good and work from 6 am to 1 am." After Denmark, Emini moved to Marseille to Gerald Passedat (with three Michelin stars).
The well-known Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo made Emin the head chef of Gran Madre, in Turin, and then moved to the Grand Royal Hotel and Golf Courmayeur, where the famous chefs Maura Gosio and Paolo Griffa have also worked.
The restaurant industry, at these levels, is a military environment.
"You earn 1400 euros, you have to pay the rent and there is very little left. After the pandemic there is less competition, many have left the sector to spend more time with family and friends", says Emini, adding that he is always at work.
"I started over and finally managed to buy my parents' house. Meanwhile, my brother Erion has completed his medical studies, so we will also have a doctor in the family", concludes Emini./ Corriere della Sera